Finding well-made vintage or secondhand clothing comes down to checking fabric, seams and labels before you buy, not just the price tag. This guide walks through the practical checks experts and resellers recommend, plus what the current secondhand-shopping boom looks like in numbers.
Thrifting has moved from a niche budget habit to a mainstream shopping strategy. Thrift store transactions rose 22% year-over-year and foot traffic to thrift shops increased more than 25% between late 2022 and late 2025, outpacing traditional retailers, according to reporting by NBC News that cited retail-industry data. The same report put the U.S. secondhand apparel market at roughly $56 billion in 2025, about double its size in 2020, with 62% of Gen Z shoppers saying they had bought secondhand clothing in the past year.
Why more shoppers are turning to secondhand racks
NBC News reported that economist Taylor Bowley identified three main drivers behind the shift: affordability during a period of persistent inflation, the appeal of unique items not sold in mainstream stores, and environmental concerns. Apparel prices were rising about 4.2% annually at the time of that reporting, the sharpest jump since 2022, which the article linked to a broader "K-shaped economy" squeezing lower-income households the hardest.
The same report quoted Julia Laracy, 18, who said secondhand clothes are "cheaper and they're older, but they have better quality" than items found at mall retailers — a view echoed by thrift store managers who said secondhand shopping lets customers find distinctive pieces unavailable at fast-fashion chains.
Step-by-step: how to evaluate a secondhand garment
Go in with a loose plan. Have a general idea of what you're looking for, but stay open to unexpected finds, since thrift inventory changes constantly, according to guidance published on Goodwill's official blog, ShopGoodwill.com.
Inspect for visible damage first. Check for stains, tears or missing buttons before looking at anything else.
Check the construction, not just the surface. Look at the seams, fabric density and zippers — loose threads, puckered seams or stiff zippers are signs of lower durability or hidden damage.
Prioritize natural fibers. Goodwill's guidance points to cotton, wool, silk and linen as materials that tend to hold up and even improve with age, compared with synthetic blends that degrade faster.
Read the label for a company name or an RN number. In the United States, garment labels must show either the company's name or a Registered Identification Number (RN), a code the Federal Trade Commission issues to any business that manufactures, imports, distributes or sells textile, wool or fur products, according to a breakdown published by labeling company RapidTags.
Look up the RN number if the brand name is missing or unfamiliar. The FTC keeps a public database that returns the registered business name tied to any RN found on a tag, which can help confirm who actually made or imported a garment.
Know which brands tend to signal quality. Recognizing dependable brands in advance makes it easier to spot genuine, well-made pieces quickly while browsing crowded racks, per Goodwill's tips.
Check every section of the store, not just the section that matches the item's apparent category — misfiled items are common and can turn up unexpected finds.
Try before you commit. Wear fitted clothing when thrifting so you can hold items up to your body or try them on without needing a fitting room.
Shop off-season and shop often. Stores tend to clear inventory when seasons change, and since stock turns over constantly, visiting regularly increases the odds of finding something worthwhile.
What the RN number can and can't tell you
An RN number identifies the U.S.-based company legally responsible for a garment — which, according to a breakdown published by labeling company RapidTags, could be the manufacturer, importer, distributor or seller, since the system does not specify which role a given company plays. It does not necessarily point to the overseas factory that actually cut and sewed the item. RN numbers are also optional under U.S. labeling law: a company can list its RN or its full name instead, so the absence of an RN on an older tag does not necessarily mean the item predates the system; it may simply mean the maker chose to print its name instead.
The bigger picture: secondhand shopping by the numbers
Secondhand and thrift shopping trends (U.S., reported by NBC News)
Metric
Figure
Period
Thrift store transactions
+22% year-over-year
2025, per NBC News
Thrift store foot traffic
+25%+
Late 2022 to late 2025
U.S. secondhand apparel market size
~$56 billion
2025
Market growth since 2020
Roughly doubled
2020–2025
Gen Z shoppers who bought secondhand
62%
Past year, as of 2025 reporting
Annual apparel price inflation
4.2%
Cited in 2025 reporting, highest since 2022
These figures come from a single NBC News report citing retail-industry and economic data; other market trackers have published different estimates for the size and growth rate of the global secondhand market, so readers comparing figures across sources should check what time period and geography each number covers.
Practical checklist before you pay
Stains, tears or missing buttons visible from a quick look
Seams that are even and don't pucker, especially at shoulders and stress points
Zippers that slide smoothly with teeth that align and lock
Fabric that feels dense rather than thin or limp when held up to light
A label with a brand name or RN number you can verify
Fiber content — natural fibers such as cotton, wool, silk and linen generally hold up better over time
These clothes are cheaper and they're older, but they have better quality.
— Julia Laracy, 18, quoted by NBC News
Questions
What's the single most important thing to check when thrifting clothes?
Construction matters most: Goodwill's official guidance recommends examining seams, fabric density and zippers in addition to obvious flaws like stains, tears or missing buttons before buying.
What is an RN number and why does it matter for secondhand shopping?
An RN, or Registered Identification Number, is issued by the U.S. Federal Trade Commission to companies that make, import, distribute or sell textile, wool or fur products; it can be looked up in the FTC's public database to identify the business responsible for a garment, according to labeling-industry guidance from RapidTags.
Does a missing RN number mean a garment is older or more authentic?
Not necessarily. RN numbers are optional under U.S. labeling rules — a company can print its full name instead — so a tag without an RN doesn't automatically indicate age or authenticity.
Why has thrift shopping grown so much recently?
NBC News reported that economist Taylor Bowley attributed the growth to a mix of affordability during inflation, the appeal of unique items, and sustainability concerns, with thrift store transactions up 22% year-over-year and foot traffic up more than 25% between late 2022 and late 2025.
Which fabrics are generally considered more durable when thrifting?
Goodwill's official tips point to natural fibers — cotton, wool, silk and linen — as materials that tend to hold up and even improve with age compared with synthetic blends.
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