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How to Choose, Buy and Care for a Watch: A Complete Guide

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Rolex Oyster Perpetual with a "Jubliee" dial
Image credit: Camwolf12 · CC0 · Wikimedia Commons

In brief

Choosing a watch starts with picking a movement (quartz, automatic or manual), a case material and a water-resistance rating that match how you'll actually wear it. Buying safely means knowing the difference between authorized-dealer and grey-market warranties, and caring for a watch long-term means cleaning it regularly and servicing it every few years. This guide walks through each decision step by step, using manufacturer and industry guidance.

A watch is one of the few accessories bought to last decades, which is why the choice of movement, case material and water resistance matters more than it does for most purchases. The following steps combine guidance from watch brands, industry publications and material-science comparisons to walk through choosing, buying and maintaining a watch.

Step 1: Decide on the movement type

The movement is the engine inside the watch, and it is the first fork in the road. According to a comparison published by Rotate Watches, quartz movements typically gain or lose only 15 to 20 seconds a month, while mechanical movements (manual or automatic) vary by about 5 to 15 seconds a day; high-end certified chronometer mechanical movements are held to roughly -4/+6 seconds a day. Quartz watches need a battery change every one to two years and little else, while mechanical movements need professional servicing every three to seven years that includes cleaning, lubrication and adjustment, the same source notes.

  1. Want set-and-forget accuracy with minimal upkeep: choose quartz.
  2. Want a self-winding watch that runs on wrist motion, with the visual appeal of a sweeping second hand: choose automatic.
  3. Want to wind the watch yourself and prefer the simplest mechanical construction: choose manual (hand-wound).

Step 2: Pick a case material for your lifestyle

Case material affects weight, scratch resistance and skin sensitivity. A material comparison from Loupe Lab lays out the trade-offs across the most common options.

Common watch case materials compared
MaterialWeightScratch/hardnessAllergy riskNotes
Stainless steel (316L)Dense, ~8.0 g/cm³~155-160 HV; scratches but polishes outContains nickel, a common allergenMost common, affordable
Stainless steel (904L)Dense, ~8.0 g/cm³Similar hardness to 316LContains nickelHarder to machine; better resistance to chloride corrosion
Titanium~40% lighter than steel at similar strength145-160 HV; shows dull scratch marksHypoallergenic, no nickelMatte grey finish, doesn't polish bright
Ceramic6.0 g/cm³, lighter than steel1,200-1,300 HV, roughly 8x harder than steelHypoallergenicScratch-resistant but brittle; can crack or shatter on sharp impact
18k gold15.5 g/cm³, heaviest common option160-180 HV, softer than steelWhite gold may contain nickelScratches readily but can be polished out; most expensive

Loupe Lab's figures show that titanium is the lighter, hypoallergenic option for people with metal sensitivities, ceramic resists scratches best but is more prone to cracking on impact, and gold is the softest and most expensive of the common materials.

Step 3: Match water resistance to how you'll use the watch

Water-resistance ratings on a dial are expressed in ATM (atmospheres) or meters, and the rating comes from a laboratory test defined by ISO standards 22810 and 6425, which cover general water resistance and diving watches respectively, according to a water-resistance explainer by The H Time. Crucially, a published rating reflects a static pressure test in a lab, not real-world depth: movement, temperature change and aging seals can all reduce the watch's actual protection over time, the same source notes.

What common water-resistance ratings allow
RatingWhat it typically allowsWhat to avoid
5 ATM (~50m)Snorkeling, splashes, daily moistureDeep diving
10 ATM (~100m)Snorkeling and swimmingHot water, diving
20 ATM (200m) and aboveRecreational diving and water sportsTreating it as a professional dive-depth guarantee without checking the specific model

Because seals degrade with age, The H Time recommends having water resistance tested at least once a year for watches used in water regularly, rinsing off salt water with fresh water after swimming, and avoiding hot water and soap, which can damage seals.

Step 4: Decide where to buy

Where a watch is purchased affects the warranty that comes with it. A comparison published by WatchWorks explains that authorized dealers offer a manufacturer's warranty, often two to five years, plus direct brand support for repairs and parts, while grey-market sellers - who sell genuine, non-counterfeit watches outside official distribution - typically do not come with that manufacturer backing, and some brands, including Rolex and Omega, may refuse to service grey-market watches at all.

WatchWorks frames the underlying choice as one of value over sticker price: buying through a channel that offers warranty support and verified provenance, it argues, protects the long-term worth of the watch in a way a cheaper, unverified purchase may not.

Step 5: Care for the watch day to day

Daily care differs by movement type, according to a servicing guide from No BS Watchmaker. Manual-wind watches should be wound daily, stopping as soon as resistance is felt in the crown to avoid damaging the mainspring. Automatic watches wind themselves from wrist motion, so watches worn infrequently may need occasional manual winding. Quartz watches should be kept away from prolonged exposure to magnetic fields, such as phones, refrigerator magnets or magnetic clasps on bags. All watches should be stored in a dry place away from magnets and extreme temperature swings, the guide adds.

Step 6: Know when to service it

Servicing intervals vary by brand and by how the watch is used. Omega's own customer-service page states the brand recommends "a complete service performed every 5 to 8 years at an OMEGA authorised service centre," and offers a 24-month warranty on each service performed. No BS Watchmaker's guide describes a broader industry range of 4 to 7 years for preventive servicing of mechanical watches generally, since the synthetic oils that lubricate the movement dry out over time; it also lists clear warning signs that a watch needs service sooner: the watch consistently runs fast, slow, or stops; a complication (like a chronograph function) stops working; the watch fails a water-resistance pressure test; or the case, crystal or crown shows physical damage.

Vintage watches often need more frequent attention within that same 4-to-7-year window, the guide adds, because replacement parts can become harder to source the longer a service is delayed.

Quick reference: choosing by priority

Questions

How often should a watch be serviced?
It depends on the brand and movement. Omega's official guidance recommends a complete service every 5 to 8 years, while industry guidance from No BS Watchmaker cites a broader 4-to-7-year range for mechanical watches generally, driven by the oils inside the movement drying out over time.
What does 5 ATM or 10 ATM water resistance mean?
ATM stands for atmospheres, a lab-tested pressure rating. The H Time explains that 5 ATM (about 50 meters) typically covers snorkeling and splashes, while 10 ATM (about 100 meters) covers swimming, but neither figure is a guarantee of real-world diving depth since seals age and lab conditions differ from everyday wear.
Is a grey-market watch fake?
No. According to WatchWorks, grey-market watches are genuine, non-counterfeit pieces sold outside a brand's official distribution network; the risk is the absence of a manufacturer warranty and, in some cases, the brand refusing to service the watch, not the authenticity of the watch itself.
Should I buy a quartz or an automatic watch?
Rotate Watches' comparison notes quartz movements are more accurate month to month and need almost no maintenance beyond battery changes, while mechanical (automatic or manual) movements require servicing every 3 to 7 years but offer the mechanical craftsmanship and heritage collectors value.
How do I clean and store a watch day to day?
No BS Watchmaker's guide advises keeping the watch away from magnetic sources like phones and magnetic bag clasps, winding manual watches gently until slight resistance is felt, and storing all watches in a dry place away from extreme temperature swings.

Sources

  1. OMEGA — Watch Servicing and Prices (official customer service page)
  2. The H Time — Water Resistance Explained: ATM, Meters, and What They Really Mean
  3. No BS Watchmaker — The Definitive Guide to Getting Your Watch Serviced
  4. Rotate Watches — How to Choose a Watch Movement: Quartz, Automatic, or Manual
  5. Loupe Lab — Watch Case Materials Guide
  6. WatchWorks — Authorized Dealer vs. Grey Market: Where Should You Buy Your Next Watch

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